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Bermuda Grass Lawn Problems: Diagnosis & Fast Fixes

Seeing yellow patches, thinning turf, or stubborn weeds in Bermuda? Use this practical guide to diagnose the most common Bermuda grass problems and apply the right fix the first time. Covers discoloration, scalping, thatch, compaction, hydrophobic soil, weeds, disease, pests, and irrigation mistakes — plus prevention so issues don’t return.

1) Quick Diagnosis: Symptom → Likely Cause

Use these pattern matches to pinpoint what’s going wrong:

Uniform pale green/yellow after heavy growth: Low nitrogen or exhausted fertiliser schedule → Resume N, tighten mowing cadence.
Interveinal yellowing (green veins, yellow between): Possible iron/micronutrient issue or high pH → Foliar micronutrients; check soil pH.
Bronze/brown areas after mowing: Scalping (cutting too low) → Raise height; mow more frequently; sharpen blades.
Spongy surface, poor infiltration, brown thatch layer: Thatch accumulation → Verticut/scarify in active growth; moderate N.
Hard ground, puddling, shallow roots: Soil compaction → Core aeration late spring–summer; topdress.
Dry, water-repellent patches despite irrigation: Hydrophobic soil → Apply wetting agent; slower, deeper watering cycles.
Thin turf with broadleaf/weedy invasion: Low density + gaps → Improve fertility/mowing; targeted herbicide per label.
Circular patches, fuzzy growth, or leaf spots in humid weather: Turf disease (e.g., leaf spot/helminthosporium) → Improve airflow/mow timing; reduce leaf wetness; fungicide if confirmed.
Chewed blades, small irregular bare spots: Insects (armyworm/cutworm/grubs) → Confirm with soap flush or tug test; treat per label.
Edges or shaded zones always weak: Insufficient sun (< ~5 h) → Raise height, reduce N, thin trees, or accept lower density.

If multiple symptoms overlap, address basics first: sun, mowing height/frequency, watering depth, and soil condition. These correct most Bermuda issues before chemicals are needed.

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2) Fix-It Playbook: Step-by-Step Remedies

A. Colour loss / slow recovery
• Resume a steady N program during growth: generally 0.5–1.0 lb N/1,000 ft²/month (≈ 0.25–0.5 kg N/100 m²).
• Prefer slow-release granular for even feeding; use liquid “spoon-feeds” between granular apps for quick tune-ups.
• If pH is high and interveinal chlorosis persists, add a foliar micronutrient (Fe/Mn) and re-check pH with a soil test.

B. Scalping / mower burn
• Raise mowing height to 25–50 mm (1–2″) for home lawns, then gradually lower if desired.
• Follow the one-third rule: never remove more than ⅓ of the blade at once; increase mowing frequency during peaks.
• Sharpen blades; level bumps with light topdressing to avoid “high spots” that get scalped.

C. Thatch build-up
• Verticut/scarify during active growth; collect debris and irrigate afterwards.
• Moderate nitrogen surges; maintain steady growth, not flushes.
• Core aerate compacted soils to boost microbial breakdown and infiltration.

D. Compaction & poor infiltration
• Core aerate late spring–summer while Bermuda is vigorous; 1–2 passes in traffic lanes.
• Topdress with sand/soil mix to smooth and open the profile; repeat annually if needed.

E. Hydrophobic / dry patches
• Apply a quality wetting agent and run irrigation in soak cycles (short on/off intervals) to push water deeper.
• Mulch-mow clippings unless growth is excessive; organic inputs help moisture retention over time.

F. Weeds invading
• First, thicken the turf: correct N schedule, sunlight, and mowing cadence.
• Spot-treat with the correct selective herbicide per label; time pre-emergents away from any seeding/renovation window.
• Avoid blanket sprays if density is low — fix density or you’ll get rapid re-infestation.

G. Disease signs (humid spells)
• Water mornings only; avoid evening leaf wetness. Improve airflow; remove heavy thatch.
• Balance N (too much = tender growth, too little = weak plants).
• If disease is confirmed and cultural fixes aren’t enough, use a labeled fungicide and rotate modes of action.

H. Insect damage
• Confirm pests (soap flush, dusk scouting, or grub tug test).
• Spot-treat with the labeled product and re-inspect in 7–10 days. Keep mowing/watering steady to speed recovery.

Pro tip for hybrids (e.g., Tifway 419/TifTuf): These respond strongly to N and tight mowing schedules. Small mistakes (over-N, under-mowing) show quickly as scalping, thatch, or soft growth. Feed modestly but consistently; mow often with sharp blades.

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3) Prevention, Seasonal Checklist & FAQ (with Product)

Seasonal checklist
• Spring: Soil test and pH adjust; balanced or P/K-supported feed; start mowing program; spot weeds early.
• Summer: N-forward feeding (granular or liquid spoon-feeds), deep/infrequent irrigation, core aerate if compacted, monitor thatch.
• Autumn: Taper N, maintain K; verticut if thatch > 12 mm; tidy weeds before winter.
• Winter: Pause N while dormant; keep irrigation minimal but adequate; plan repairs for spring.

Recommended for fast green-up and steady colour on Bermuda: CompleteGrow Lawn Grow – Hose-On Liquid Lawn Fertiliser. Use as a simple, even, hose-on feed to recover colour after stress, tighten density between granular applications, and maintain a consistent look through the growing season.

FAQ

Why is my Bermuda turning yellow?
Most often low nitrogen, dull mower blades (torn tips), or high pH affecting iron uptake. Resume a steady N program, sharpen blades, and check pH/micros.

How do I stop scalping?
Raise height to 25–50 mm (1–2″), mow more frequently, and level humps with light topdressing. Keep blades sharp.

What fixes persistent dry patches?
Use a wetting agent and cycle-soak irrigation (short on/off runs) to push water deeper; address thatch and compaction.

Can I cure weeds without wrecking the lawn?
Thicken the turf first (fertility, mowing, sun). Then spot-treat with the correct selective herbicide per the label; avoid blanket apps on thin turf.

Do hybrids like Tifway 419 need different care?
Same fundamentals, but they’re more responsive. Keep N moderate and regular, mow more often, and watch thatch/scalping closely.