Why Are My Ranunculus Leaves Yellow?

Match the symptom to the cause, then correct watering, pH and nutrition. Ranunculus prefer even moisture, sharp drainage, full sun and a balanced, water-soluble feed. Target soil pH 6.0–6.8.

New leaves yellow, veins green (interveinal): Likely iron chlorosis from high pH or cold, wet media. Fix pH to 6.0–6.8; give a balanced liquid feed and optional chelated iron.
Older leaves yellow first: Possible nitrogen deficiency or natural aging post-bloom. Feed with a balanced liquid; remove only fully spent leaves.
Whole plant yellow + soggy soil: Overwatering or poor drainage. Pause watering, improve drainage, raise the bed or repot into free-draining mix.
Leaf edges brown/crispy in pots: Salt build-up or drought swings. Flush pots with plain water; resume half-strength feeding.
Speckled/yellowed leaves with fine webbing: Spider mites. Rinse foliage thoroughly; use insecticidal soap; increase humidity around plants.
Powdery patches or grey fuzz: Fungal disease. Remove affected leaves, improve airflow, avoid overhead watering.
Leaves yellowing after flowering: Normal senescence into dormancy. Reduce water and stop feeding.

Use This to Correct Most Nutrient Issues

CompleteGrow All Purpose Liquid (NPK 20-20-20 + micronutrients)

Balanced N-P-K supports roots, foliage and flower buds without pushing leaf-only growth.
Micronutrients help resolve chlorosis and weak stems when pH is in range.
Rates: 10 mL per 1 L water (full strength) every 10–14 days; 5 mL per 1 L for half-strength or recovery feeds.

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Causes Explained: Diagnose, Fix, Prevent

1) Water & Roots (most common)

Signs: Soggy soil, limp yellow foliage, slow or collapsing growth.
Fix: Pause watering; aerate soil surface; tilt pots to drain; repot into free-draining mix if needed. In beds, add coarse compost + sharp sand or raise 10–15 cm.
Prevent: Water deeply but less often; ensure pots have large drainage holes; avoid thick, wet mulch over crowns.

2) Nutrition Gaps (N, Fe, Mg)

Nitrogen deficiency: Older leaves turn uniform yellow first. Fix: Feed with CompleteGrow at full strength (10 mL/L). Repeat in 10–14 days.
Iron chlorosis: New growth yellow with green veins, often in high-pH or cold, wet media. Fix: Adjust pH to 6.0–6.8; feed half–full strength; optional chelated iron foliar at 2–3 mL/L, morning only.
Magnesium lack: Interveinal yellowing on older leaves. Fix: Balanced feeding usually corrects; only use Epsom salts if deficiency is confirmed.

3) pH Out of Range (availability problem)

Target: pH 6.0–6.8. Above ~7.0, iron and other micros lock up.
Fix: Test media with a home kit. If high, avoid liming; alternate watering with rain/filtered water; rely on balanced liquid feeds. If very low pH, blend in a little garden lime weeks before planting (not during active growth).

4) Salts & Drought Swings (pots)

Signs: Brown, crispy edges; pale leaves despite feeding.
Fix: Flush with plain water equal to 2–3× pot volume; next feed at half strength; resume normal rhythm.
Prevent: Feed on schedule; avoid repeated “strong” mixes; water to slight runoff to avoid accumulation.

5) Light & Temperature Stress

Low light: Pale, stretchy foliage. Move to full sun (6+ hours); keep feeds balanced.
Heat spikes (>28 °C): Temporarily reduce to half-strength feeds; water early morning; provide light afternoon shade.

6) Pests & Diseases

Spider mites/aphids: Stippling, yellowing, fine webbing or sticky residue. Hose off undersides; use insecticidal soap; improve airflow.
Fungal leaf issues: Powdery patches or grey fuzz. Remove affected leaves; water soil not leaves; space plants for airflow.

7) Normal Senescence & Dormancy

After flowering, yellowing is expected as plants enter dormancy. Taper water; stop fertiliser; lift and store corms in wet/cold regions.

Recovery feed: Once roots are healthy and pH is in range, apply CompleteGrow All Purpose Liquid 20-20-20 at 5–10 mL/L every 10–14 days. In pots recovering from salt build-up, use half strength for 2 feeds.

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Yellow Leaves FAQ (Australia)

New leaves are yellow with green veins — what does that mean?

Classic iron chlorosis from high pH or cold, wet media. Bring pH to 6.0–6.8, keep soil evenly moist (not soggy), feed with a balanced liquid and optionally apply chelated iron at 2–3 mL/L to leaves in the morning.

Older leaves turned yellow first — deficiency or normal?

If plants are still in active growth, it’s often nitrogen shortage. Feed with CompleteGrow at 10 mL/L and repeat in 10–14 days. After flowering, some yellowing is normal as plants enter dormancy.

My pot mix was white-crusted and leaves browned at the edges — what now?

Flush the pot with plain water 2–3× its volume. Resume half-strength feeding next time and water to slight runoff to prevent salt accumulation.

Can too much fertiliser cause yellow leaves?

Yes — salt stress can burn edges and disrupt nutrient uptake, showing as yellowing. Flush containers and return to half strength for 1–2 feeds.

Does tap water make chlorosis worse?

Hard/alkaline water can raise media pH. If yours is hard, alternate with rain or filtered water and keep pH near 6.0–6.8.

Should I cut off yellow leaves?

Remove only fully yellow or diseased leaves. If plants are still growing, keep lightly green leaves so they can photosynthesise while you correct the cause.

Will yellow leaves turn green again?

Usually no — focus on new growth after fixing watering, pH and nutrition. Healthy new leaves are the best indicator of recovery.

What’s the one change that helps most gardeners?

Improve drainage and consistency: free-draining mix, water to even moisture, pH 6.0–6.8, and a balanced liquid feed (CompleteGrow 20-20-20) on a 10–14 day rhythm.