Alocasia Leaves Turning Yellow

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Why Are My Alocasia Leaves Turning Yellow?

Yellow Alocasia leaves usually signal stress. The most common causes are overwatering, drought, seasonal dormancy, or nutrient deficiencies (especially nitrogen, magnesium, and potassium). While occasional yellowing of the oldest leaf is normal, widespread yellowing means the plant needs intervention. The fastest recovery comes from correcting watering habits and feeding with CompleteGrow All Purpose Liquid NPK 20-20-20.

At a Glance: Causes of Yellow Leaves in Alocasia

  • Overwatering: Roots suffocate, causing yellowing from the base up
  • Underwatering: Dry soil leads to wilting and uniform yellowing
  • Nutrient deficiency: Pale or patchy yellowing from lack of N, Mg, or K
  • Dormancy: In cooler months, Alocasia naturally shed older leaves
  • Low humidity or cold stress: Yellowing and collapse of new growth

Quick Fix: Check soil moisture, adjust watering, and resume balanced feeding with CompleteGrow 20-20-20 at 2–3 ml/L every 10–14 days during active growth.

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Overwatering & Root Rot

Constantly soggy soil cuts off oxygen to roots, leading to yellowing from the bottom leaves upward. If roots begin to rot, leaves collapse quickly. Solution: Repot into a chunky, fast-draining aroid mix and let the top 2–3 cm dry before watering again.

Underwatering & Drought Stress

If soil dries completely, Alocasia leaves droop and turn yellow. A single drought cycle can permanently shrink the next leaf flush. Solution: Keep soil evenly moist by watering when the surface begins to dry — never let it bone-dry or waterlogged.

Nutrient Deficiency

Nitrogen deficiency: Uniform pale yellowing, especially older leaves.
Magnesium deficiency: Interveinal yellowing with veins staying green.
Potassium deficiency: Yellow margins and tip browning.
Solution: Apply CompleteGrow 20-20-20 every 7–14 days in active seasons. For persistent Mg issues, use a light foliar magnesium spray.

Dormancy & Seasonal Yellowing

In autumn and winter, many Alocasia naturally shed some leaves as they slow down. Yellowing of the oldest leaf at this time is not a problem. Solution: Reduce watering, stop regular feeding, and wait for new growth to return in spring.

Cold & Humidity Stress

Cold drafts, AC vents, or very dry air can cause yellowing of new growth and leaf collapse. Solution: Keep temperatures above 18°C, maintain 60–70% humidity, and avoid sudden environmental swings.

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How to Prevent Yellow Leaves

  • Use the right mix: A chunky aroid mix with bark and perlite prevents waterlogging.
  • Check moisture before watering: Insert a finger 2–3 cm deep — water only if the top feels slightly dry.
  • Feed consistently: Use CompleteGrow 20-20-20 during spring–summer to avoid nutrient shortfalls.
  • Maintain humidity: Group plants or use a humidifier to keep levels above 50%.
  • Avoid stress: Keep away from drafts, sudden cold, or harsh midday sun.

FAQs

  • Is one yellow leaf normal? Yes — the oldest leaf often yellows naturally when new ones unfurl.
  • Should I cut off yellow leaves? Yes — once fully yellow, remove them at the base so energy goes to new growth.
  • Can fertiliser fix yellow leaves? It can’t reverse yellowing already present, but balanced feeding prevents new leaves from yellowing.
  • Why are only lower leaves yellow? This usually points to natural ageing, nitrogen shortage, or overwatering.

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